Belgium and the last hurrah

We spent the last part of our Eurotrip in Belgium, spending two nights in Brussels. Driving in, we stopped in Antwerp - an interesting town with a large industrial port area and a largely modern architectural feel. It's saving grace was its downtown core which seems to have been spared during 20th century wars - a beautiful central square and a stunning cathedral.

Brussels itself was a friendly place. It was easy to navigate and seemed full of people who were - well - friendly and happy to help travelers in need. This was highlighted by the owner/manager of the adorable little bed and breakfast we stayed in.

The city itself felt somewhat like a combination of all those we had visited before it. Its older architecture was reminiscent of Amsterdam's with tall, skinny buildings capped with elaborate gables. The main square was a stunning example of architectural uniformity and decoration.

To me, it also felt somewhat like Berlin. Parts of the city had been updated - the streets widened and the buildings modernized. You could walk into a certain section and be amidst buildings all built within the last thirty years - a marked change from the older, central square.

We enjoyed Brussels.

On our drive back to Paris, we took a slight detour to Ypres, the sight of much of the worst fighting of the First World War. It is located in Flanders - made famous by the tragic poem of John Macrae, "In Flanders Fields." There are WW1 cemeteries, a huge memorial arch as you enter the town centre (where I'm told they still play 'The Last Post' every day at sundown), and a fantastic WW1 museum. The museum (called the "In Flanders Fields Museum") takes you through the chronology of the war as well as the experiences of the soldiers fighting on each side. Alex and I were particularly entertained by one display that talked about how both the Canadian and the Australian soldiers were so passionate about fighting that they had to be cordoned off outside of town, having caused too much raucous with the locals.

After Ypres, we embarked on our final drive, back to Paris. Returning to Paris was somewhat like returning home. It had been my base for so much of my time in Europe and - unlike any of the other cities we drove into - is familiar to me. Coming back after an absence in unknown places made me realize that I really have come to 'know' Paris. I understand her and I think she understands me.