You can't miss it...

There are certain characteristics about Paris that are absolutely impossible to miss. The most obvious one would be, well you know, the French. There is also their absolutely incredible attention to quality architecture, their hypochondriac-like need to have a pharmacy (with its flashing green neon cross overhead) on every corner, and their absolute refusal to pick up after their dogs do their business on the street.

Another is of course the smoking. It is no exaggeration; the French smoke everywhere all the time. Coming from North America where smoking is as close to banned as politically possible, it is absolutely shocking. I was eating at a restaurant last night and remember a distinctive feeling of surprise when the bartender and three of the waitresses lit up while standing by the bar. Some restaurants have smoking and non-smoking sections, but most are simply too small to accommodate this.

What this prevalence of smoking does is remove the choice. Essentially, those who choose to light up are deciding for everyone - smokers and non - what the air quality will be. Thanks, but I tend to prefer to eat my food without the additional nicotine, tar, etc. Moreover, I have resigned myself to the fact that absolutely all of my clothing, particularly my beautiful new leather jacket, will smell like smoke. I suppose that when everybody else smells like smoke and there is always smoke in the air, no one will notice. What I'll do to fumigate when I get back to Canada, however, is another matter.

The other thing you can't help but notice is the sheer number of eating and drinking establishments. I have been amazed at how many cafes, bars, bistros, restaurants, brasseries, etc there are. And they are all always busy (ok, except for the not insignificant amount of time that they are closed, because hey this is socialist France after all). They pack people in as closely as possible, offering wonderful opportunities to become well - and I do mean well - acquainted with your neighbours.

You may think that the plethora of culinary establishments is because of the tourists. Well, yes, you would be partially right. However, right now is low season, tourist-wise, and I can tell you from experience that the vast majority of people in these places are locals, real Frenchies.

Well, I have figured out why. With apartments the size of shoeboxes and kitchens a fraction of that, no one wants to cook at home anymore. The very culture known for its culinary excellence is no longer cooking! Certainly some of the world's best chefs originate in or are educated in France, but the general population seems to really dig eating out.

Speaking of which, time to go to the local "resto" and get my fill of second-hand smoke and dinner. À bientôt.